It's the end of an epic journey and an amazing adventure.
As I type this, we are somewhere over WA, flying back to Melbourne after a wonderful 23 days of fun, laughter, song, dance, joy, happiness, sunsets, trains, roller coasters, boats, river cruises, theme parks, observation wheels, shopping malls, strange food, museums, plane rides, monorails, trains, taxis, markets, hawker stalls, famous white coffee, batik painting and much, much more!
People have said that a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. Two years ago I booked a flight from Singapore to KL on Air Asia for about this time last year because I'd planned on taking this trip then. Sadly (or fortunately, depending on how you like looking at your 50% glass of water), I had to cancel it due to my shoulder surgery.
No matter how dire a situation may seem at the time, you must never lose hope. 54 weeks ago I was in incredible pain, stuck in a sling, unable to dress or feed myself properly and...unemployed! This adventure totally seemed like the ultimate pipe dream back then.
However, planning this trip gave me something to look forward to during all the painful physio sessions after my shoulder reconstruction surgery, all the nights and weekends spent at home or working out at the gym while my friends were out having fun, going without heating all winter to save money, making lots of sacrifices and doing without stuff, all to ensure that I could have the adventure that I feel I truly deserved and have thoroughly enjoyed!
I refer to this trip as having been all about Malaysia, even though I spent four days in Singapore. This trip was never about visiting Singapore; it was just about tying up a few loose ends there that I missed six years ago - like the Singapore Flyer, the Zoo, the Night Safari, the DUCK tour and doing a little shopping. Of course, it's been Ramadhan for most of the time I've been away, so going back to Geylang Serai for the annual pasar malam was on the list there too.
Malaysia has definitely stolen my heart and run off into a beautiful a Kuching sunset with it. There are so many more places I want to visit there and I'm definitely not done with the country yet! I don't need to go anywhere else yet, there's heaps left to see and do in Malaysia - plus it's cheap, super cheerful and beautiful. Friendly people, amazing food, beautiful sights, warm hospitality, gorgeous beaches, astonishing sunsets...what more do you need?
Here's where I've been this trip, with two words to describe each place, a nutshell summary and my highlights and low lights.
Langkawi - tranquil, relaxed.
I adored Langkawi. Pantai Cenang is my new favourite beach, out of some pretty fantastic candidates for this title that I've visited in the Asia Pacific region. I loved that five minutes walk down the road you'll find paddy fields and water buffalo.
The mass development in the Cenang area is a bit annoying and challenging to navigate as a pedestrian but as long as it leads to good and not evil then I suppose I'm okay with it. I'm a little disturbed about what has happened with Reggae Mat Bar and Beach Garden Resort - progress is one thing, destruction of the character of the area is quite another. I don't want Cenang turning into another Tanjong on Sentosa. So sad.
I loved the diverse scenery out on the water and outside Cenang, the gorgeous friendly people, the street food and the shopping. I'm so glad I started my trip here! I'd fly all the way back for the weekend once a month if money allowed. Seriously, it was THAT awesome.
Highlights: Riding the world's steepest cable car, Pantai Cenang, Island Hopping, Around Island Tour, Alun-Alun spa (still thinking about that Lemongrass and Ginger Tea), Nasi Kandar Red Tomato food centre, Billion at Langkawi Fair
Lowlights: eagle feeding, developments at Pantai Cenang, being chased by otters at Underwater World (LOL).
Penang - frantic, eclectic.
After the tranquility, serenity, peace, quiet and relaxed atmosphere of Langkawi, Georgetown was a bloody rude shock to the system! Kinda reminded me of arriving in KL after being in Singapore for three weeks back in 2007. I hated KL that time.
I'm still not sold on some of Penang. I loved Chinatown, I loved the Peranakan Mansion, I loved the temples. Might need another couple of days there. Perhaps if I'd had one or two more days it would have been different!
Highlights: temples, temples and more temples, airport bus 401, Peranakan Mansion, the malls outside main area of George Town (e.g. Queensbay, Gurney Plaza).
Lowlights: motorcycles, traffic, questionable feelings around personal safety), being a pedestrian, sleazy south Asians, footpaths (or lack thereof),
Kuching - lush, exotic.
I loved Borneo the first time I went there, when I spent a week in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah state. Turns out I still love and adore Borneo. There's just something so laid back, civilised and polite about it.
Taxi drivers speak English and don't try to rip you off (and they're not dodgy sleazeballs like some of the ones i was unfortunate enough to come across in KL). Borneans are beautiful, helpful, sweet and friendly people. All those who were rude to me in Penang, Singapore and KL should be sent there for etiquette lessons and finishing school.
Highlights: river cruise, cat museum, riverfront shops, that Tandoori buffet a d as sick as it sounds, Hartz chicken buffet LOL.
Lowlights: no taxis hanging around at the cat museum. Seriously, WTF? Taxis without meters were hell expensive.
Johor Bahru - surprising, fun.
Yes, yes, I know I've done a backflip on JB. I saw quite a bit more of it this time, because there was more there to see. It's surprising how much of a different vibe the place has this time around. Plus, Legoland is there and the malls are pretty awesome too. Needs more exploring time next visit. And of course another trip to Legoland!
Singapore - sterile, clinical.
This was sad. I don't think I'd bother going back UNLESS there was something awesome and new to do. Universal studios was not awesome enoughGoing back just to visit the other dome at Gardens by the Bay won't make up for the sterile, cold, clinical feel that Singapore had this time around.
I guess it was a good place to start my Asian travels six years ago but I've outgrown the training wheels, safety net and floaties. I've grown up, I'm wiser, more confident, more assertive (just ask the rude taxi drivers in KL, LOL!) and while its nice that its a safe and FINE city, I'm kinda over it. There's only so many plates of roasted pork rice you can enjoy.
I still really hate what has happened to Tanjong Beach. Stupid developers, talk about taking the beauty of a deserted beach and turning it into a sin pit. Seeing this broke my heart. Nice work. NOT!
Kuala Lumpur - frenetic, exciting
KL, you and I certainly had some fleeting moments of sheer hatred six years ago. About ten days worth, if memory serves. This time however, it was about five minutes worth in seven days. I love your malls (although your stalker shop assistants aren't cool), I love your tourist attractions (still got some to see next time), I love your airport trains.
However, I hate the Mosquitos on your public buses, I hate 99% of your taxi drivers and I hate how disintegrated your "integrated" public transport system is. Having to buy two different passes to ride your trains is a pain in the ass. So is the hike between lines. And none of it makes any sense. How about making a brochure or website or app that has a list of the key tourist attractions and malls etc, with how to get there?
BTW your hop on hop off bus is a bit crap, particularly in the afternoon and evening. The price increase from RM38 to RM45 doesn't justify the poor service. You also might want to tell people that lithe last bus (6:30pm from Pasar Seni) will drive around at 30 km/h, skip half the attractions and then dump them at KLCC at 8pm. Just saying. Your commentators are great though.
Other than that, keep up the awesome work! You're doing really well!
Highlights: Petronas Towers, Jadi Batek Gallery for Batik Painting, Sim Flight KL 737 flight simulator, Stars Indoor Archery, Berjaya Times Square, KL monorail, airport trains,
Lowlights: taxi drivers in general, link from KL Sentral to KL monorail still not completed (yes guys, I did notice. You promised to have this finished six years ago...), disintegrated public transport, buses running on Malaysian time and not to the timetable. Aga-aga lah.
Ipoh - quaint, traditional
Ipoh was a spur of the moment, seat of my pants decision that I don't regret, even though it took over 10 mins to cross a road one night. Probably best visited before or well after Ramadan, not during. Too hard to find food in the evenings (around the breaking of the fast), as places were booked out weeks and even months in advance. Or do what I did and eat earlier, before the fast breaks. Makes more sense.
Lowlights: The Lost World of Tambun should never be found, quite frankly. Yes, the night Hot Springs visit is worth it but the park is crap. Sorry, but it is. The playground in my beachside town in Melbourne has better rides and they're free.
Highlights: The Lost World Hotel was pretty lush after two weeks in Tune Hotels, a semi-grubby beachfront "resort" in Langkawi and a semi-grubby backpackers in Singapore. The malls here are great - not excellent, but pretty darn good. Lots of shoes, lots of books. Worth it.
And now a few words on Air Asia.
I've had seven flights with them in 23 days. Five short (up to two hours), two longhaul (MEL/KUL and KUL/MEL).
I've flown:
- Melbourne to KL (LCCT), international longhaul
- KL (LCCT) to Langkawi
- Langkawi to Penang (dang short hop that one)
- Penang to Kuching
- Kuching to Johor Bahru (Senai)
- Singapore to KL (LCCT), international short haul flight
- KL (LCCT) to Melbourne, international longhaul
All except two of these flights have left early, those two left on time (Singapore to KL and KL to Melbourne). All except one have taken less than the scheduled flight time (the Singapore to KL one, bloody Singaporean efficiency) and all bar one have arrived early - that pesky Singapore to KL flight strikes once again. Pretty dang good efficiency - most airlines in Oz can't top that!
Yes, it's a low cost airline. Yes, you have to use stairs and not air bridges. Yes, its a long and hot walk from your plane to the LCCT terminal. Yes, they do give you cute red Air Asia umbrellas to use if it is raining (like it was when I first flew into KL from Melbourne). Yes, they are strict on baggage (although that being said the only time they weighed my hand carry bag was in Melbourne when I left for my trip).
And yes, you have to buy meals, snacks and drinks on board (get over it). You can pre-book up to two meals for each longhaul flight, which I did. You can also pre-purchase a mat kelapa (young coconut) to drink between islands, like I did between KL and Langkawi, then again between Langkawi and Penang - forgot about the second one and boy was it a ice surprise). Their snack and drink selection is pretty good and you pay in Ringgit Malaysia (RM), so if you happen to be an Aussie you're laughing.
It's a nice sized plane for the longhaul trips - an Airbus A330. The seats are 3x3, i.e. three rows of three seats across). They are comfy and have a bit of recline. They are not the widest seats, so if you're over a 14 on the bottom you'll be a little squished. The seat pitch is okay though, for a low cost carrier. I didn't require any seatbelt extensions this trip, having lost a whole woman in weight since my first trip to Malaysia six years ago. Woohoo!!!
I had the good sense and apparently the good fortune to apply and pre-pay for an ESO (empty seat option) upgrade through Optiontown for the longhaul flights, which gave me a row of three seats to myself on both longhaul flights. Believe me, it's totally worth the $28 AUD each way.
My flight to Malaysia was an overnighter, so I was able to sleep a bit in between feeling like crap and spewing my guts out (think it was the chill pills actually, not the plane food. I've been totally fine eating the same things this flight). My flight back to Melbourne was an afternoon/evening one so I've had plenty of space to just sit back, relax, put my feet up, stretch out my legs across three seats and not have to climb over anyone to get in and out of my seat. Score!
The domestic and Simgapore to KL flights were on the Airbus A320, similar to Jetstar. Again, perfectly fine planes and comfy seats.
Service-wise, the crew are faultless. Polite, friendly, super-helpful and really efficient. They go out of their way to find stuff for you (nuts without honey roasting, for one), are constantly smiling and clearly all love their jobs. Their uniforms are cool, they are beautifully groomed and if they promise you something, they make it happen. One of the guys on my flight tonight was super cute and friendly, but sadly for me he's married (lucky, lucky, lucky wife!).
The flights have all been fantastic. This was the perfect way and the perfect airline to get over my previous flying irrational fears - these guys and girls are slick! Only one flight required chemical assistance (two tablets of anti-anxiety medication, which I threw up at 4am anyway) and that was, I am very proud to say, on the first flight from Melbourne to KL. I've now done six flights, including the 8hrs from KL to Melbourne, with no more chill pills required. Way to go me!
I'd totally fly Air Asia again. Anytime, anywhere! Tony Fernandes, I'm sure I don't need to tell you that you're onto a winner mate, because your awesome airline has won the Skytrax award for being the world's best low-cost airline for the fifth year in a row. Love your work!
So, there you have it. While I'm really sad to have left beautiful Malaysia and I can hear the engines powering down and feel the nose tilting forwards, I am looking forward to getting home to cold, rainy, windy, silly old Melbourne.
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